Silk Weaving in Sudbury

22nd February 2023 | Local History Society

Richard Heap who works for the firm of Stephen Walters &Son in Sudbury as Quality Manager was the very interesting speaker at our meeting this month. He gave us an overview of the history of the company and of its continuing success in the modern world.

In 1685 when the Edict of Nantes was revoked, Huguenots fled France to avoid religious persecution. Many came to London, to Spitalfields, which was a centre of textile manufacture. They were wealthy and successful so taxation was brought in by London magistrates. This resulted in a move to small market towns like Haverhill, Braintree and Sudbury where it was possible to produce silk more cheaply.  Many actually walked, and this was commemorated for many years by a walk from Bethnal Green to Braintree. Wool production had moved north to Yorkshire so silk weaving was able to be set up with hand looms in houses. Many houses in Sudbury have three storeys – the ground floor for storage, the top floor for living accommodation and the middle floor for the ‘shop’. In 1720, Stephen Walters and Son who were silk merchants, became weavers.

By 1850, 2,000 people in Sudbury worked in the silk industry, but by 1890 the trade was in decline. Owners got together to build factories and 47 Gainsborough Street in Sudbury (near Gainsborough’s House Museum) was the first. You can still see the number on the building.

New technologies were developed over the years and by the 1960s the electronic systems were developed which are still used today.

The silk cocoons come mostly from China and are processed in North Africa and Eastern Europe before going to the Lake Como area of Italy for dyeing as the water there is perfect. Small amounts of specialist dyeing takes place in Sudbury and the firm is very mindful of the environmental issues this could cause.

The firm of Stephen Walters & Son is now in the 10th generation of fathers and sons who have kept silk weaving going in the town. Today they employ 120 people and mostly make specialist neckwear. They make ties for Manchester United and have produced wall hangings for Gainsborough’s museum as well as material to cover the interior of the King’s Coronation Coach. The modern machines can be adapted to weave other materials such as linen, wool and polyester.

Richard answered many questions and was warmly thanked by the Chairman for his excellent talk.

Here is a link to some photos about the history of the company that you may like to see http://stephenwalters.co.uk/history/

The next meeting is on Tuesday 21st March when Ashley Cooper will talk on ‘Rural Rebellion: The Wars of the 1930s Tithe’.

Dorothy Anderson

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